Would a trip to Kolkata ever be complete without a ritualistic sojourn to the Maniktala Market ?
Well, unlikely.
I can, much to Maa’s consternation, spend hours in the maacher bajar, enraptured by the sights and sounds, the hustle and bustle, walking up and down the slippery aisles, taking stock of the fish proudly on display, occasionally pausing to quench my curiosity.
O dada eta ki maach ? (What fish is this one ?)
And what a cauldron of activity it is !!
Fishmongers, perched on their elevated platforms, no different from royals on their pompous thrones, presiding over their delectable array of fish, engaged in animated conversation with their regular customers. And you guessed it right, it’s indeed football that’s the topic of discussion this morning – Neymar’s antics, Ronaldo’s free-kicks, Messi’s misses and the Belgian team that has been such a revelation.
Young helpers enthusiastically shouting their ware, splashing water once in a while on the fish, arranging and re-arranging them into disciplined rows. And once in a while, stealing a quick glance at their plastic-wrapped smartphones.
Menfolk furiously looking at their watches as they impatiently wait in serpentine queues to get their bhetkis filleted or their tangras cleaned. Oh no, can’t be late to office yet again, one quips in frustration.
An elderly lady haggling with the fishmonger over the outrageous price of chitol. Daylight robbery, she hollers, but that doesn’t deter her from buying the prized peti, does it ?
An old gentleman, clutching his neatly folded blue and green striped nylon bag, carefully maneuvering a puddle of water. Daughter has come home after a long time, he tells the fishmonger, a smile illuminating his wrinkle-riddled face, her favourite golda chingri it is today. While reminding himself to not forget the coconut on the way back.
A young boy, all of nine or ten captivated by the magur chasing each other silly in a battered aluminium drum filled with water.
Two retired friends wallowing in sweet nostalgia reminiscing times when ilish was still less than a hundred rupees a kilo and eating pomfret hadn’t yet become a fad.
The pabda that I pick up arrives home.
Albeit a couple of hours late.
Maa puts up a show of mock anger.
And then goes over to her kitchen.
What do you want to eat ? She asks.
A Kumro Pabda shall be quick, shall it not ? I respond. Or may be your special Doodh pabda ?
And then change my mind again.
Your Pabda Hingi, haven’t had it in years.
So Pabda Hingi it is for lunch.
Pabda Hingi. Gorgeous Pabda. A splutter of kalonji. The warmth of ginger. The earthiness of hing. A profusion of chopped coriander.
And of course, oodles of Maa’s love.
This is happiness.
This is food heaven !!
Pabda Hingi (Pabda with Asafoetida)
Ingredients
- 4 pabda (butter fish)
- 8-10 fried badi (dried lentil dumplings)
- 2 tomatoes finely chopped
- 1 tsp ginger juice
- 6-7 green chilies slit
- 1/4 cup coriander leaves chopped
- 1 tsp turmeric powder
- 1 tsp hing
- 2 tbsp mustard oil
- salt to taste
Instructions
- Marinate the fish with salt, a pinch of turmeric powder and a few drops of mustard oil. Keep aside.
- Soak the hing in 1 tbsp water, keep aside.
- Heat 1 tbsp oil in a pan, shallow fry the fish till light brown. Keep aside on a kitchen absorbent towel.
- To the same pan, throw in the kalonji and 2-3 green chilies, allow to splutter.
- Add the chopped tomatoes, ginger juice, 3-4 green chilies, the remaining turmeric powder and salt. Cook till oil starts to release from the masala.
- Add 1 cup of warm water. Bring to a gentle simmer.
- Carefully place the fried fish in the curry, throw in the fried boris and the remaining green chilies, add the hing-water.
- The curry shall not be too runny or too thick. Continue to cook for another 5-6 minutes till the consistency is right.
- Finish with chopped coriander leaves. Serve hot.
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