Mutton Pantheras, the Anglo Indian Way

Food, they say, is all about nostalgia.
The exhilarating aroma wafting from the ancient soot-blackened kitchen in our Karimganj home as Grandma, seated on her pire in front of the mud oonoon, patiently stirred her payesh.
Or that crunch as Dada and I bit into the crispy nimki, straight out of the kadai,  filled to the brim with oil, our tongues singed by the heat. (But that too doesn’t deter us as we reach out, even before Maa can warn us, for yet another one.)

So when Kankana, one of my blogger friends sends a note regarding hosting a virtual potluck for Diwali, it is all about foraging the vaults of memory, of long-lost childhood, for that one dish that brought back Diwali, rather Kali Pujo, to me.

It was one such Kali Pujo, many autumns back, we embarked on a long-anticipated vacation to Kolkata.
And in between mornings at the Museum, appreciating antiquated Kalighat paintings and awe-inspiring chhou masks and afternoons in the expansive greens of the Victoria Memorial, staring listlessly at the pastel-blue autumn skies as the wispy cirrus floated aimlessly past the fairy, it was Dada and me exploring the city for all the sinful street food it had to offer.

And what a hedonistic universe this was !!!!

Kathi Rolls. And a mind-blogging spread of them – Egg. Chicken. Egg-chicken. Double egg-chicken. Double egg-double chicken.
Jhalmuri, bhelpuri and phuchkas. And the to-die-for churmur !!!! (Long before acclaimed chefs started playing with textures)
Singaras and kachoris.
Radhaballabhis and aloor dom.
Ghugni served with a smile in earthy sal-pata bowls. With a profusion of chopped onion and coriander leaves. And a generous squeeze of lemon.
Tele-bhajas. Full of sin.
Chops and cutlets. The colonial hangover.
Chicken momos and thupkas. And that wicked red sauce !!!
Chicken chowmein and that delectable Chinese breakfast at Territy Bazaar.

But what remained etched in my little just-into-my-teens brain was the Mutton Pantheras we savoured one lazy afternoon in a hole-in-the-wall tearoom, somewhere around Park Street, run by an elderly Anglo-Indian couple. Been around for three generations now, the gregarious gentleman had remarked, beaming with pride, as he regaled us with stories of the metropolis during the Second World War. (Overnight the eatery became a warehouse of the Americans. I still have the comic books one soldier left with me when it was time for him to leave the city…..)
Of course the taste was delectable.
But it was the name (Pantheras, really ??? Panthera as in a tiger ? I mused in innocent glee as I pored over the menu) that stuck to me for years to come.

And it is that languorous afternoon I attempt to re-create as I go about with my Mutton Pantheras for the potluck.
That time-stops-still ambience that so defines Kolkata.
That unforgettable taste, each layer teasing the senses before revealing itself in all its splendid glory.
The occasional fiendish chilly that I encountered.
Or the piquant kashundi that accompanied the Mutton Pantheras.

Mutton Pantheras. Spicy mutton mince. Cocooned in the embrace of a warm crepe. Rolled in breadcrumbs. And fried to a sinful golden.
Redolent of the Raj.
Of lazy afternoons and hedonistic tea rituals.
If this is not festive indulgence, what is ?

And if you want to know what our potluck looked like, here are the remaining recipes –
Lilva Kachori by Binjal Pandya
Prawn Pulao by Chandrima Sarkar
Ilish Pulao by Deepasri Deb
Karachi Halwa by Somedutta Sengupta
Mysore Pak by Radhika Penagonda
Balushahi by Himanshu Taneja
Rasmalai by Kankana Saxena
Paal Kozhukatai by Vijitha Shyam
Mini Gulab Jamun by Rumela Roy
Malai Laddu by Prerna Singh

Wishing you all a very happy and safe Deepavali !!!!!

Mutton Pantheras

Mutton Pantheras. Spicy mutton mince. Cocooned in the embrace of a warm crepe. Rolled in breadcrumbs. And fried to a sinful golden. Redolent of the Raj. Of lazy afternoons and hedonistic tea rituals. If this is not festive indulgence, what is ?

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Course Snacks

Cuisine Bengali, Indian

Ingredients

  

For the Stuffing

• 200 g minced mutton
• 2 onion finely chopped
• 2 tsp ginger paste
• 2 tsp green chili paste
• 3 cloves garlic finely chopped
• 1 tomato pureed
• 1 tsp turmeric powder
• 1 tsp red chili powder
• 2 tsp coriander powder
• 1 tsp cumin powder
• 2 green cardamom
• 2 cloves
• 1 half inch cinnamon stick
• 1 tsp lemon juice
• 1/4 cup coriander leaves
• 2 tbsp mustard oil
• 1/2 tsp garam masala powder
• salt to taste

For the crepes

• 3/4 cup plain flour
• 1/2 cup milk
• 1 egg whipped
• 1 tsp black pepper powder
• salt to taste
• vegetable oil for cooking

Assembling the Pantheras

• 2 eggs
• 1 tsp black pepper powder
• salt to taste
• breadcrumbs for coating
• vegetable oil for frying

Instructions

 

For the stuffing

• Heat oil in a pan, add the crushed cinnamon, green cardamom, and cloves, allow them to splutter.
• Once the spices have released their aroma, discard the spices.
• To the same oil, add the chopped onions and garlic, cook till the onions take a light brown tinge.
• Stir in the ginger paste, green chili paste and tomato puree, cook for a further 5 minutes.
• Add the turmeric powder, red chili powder, cumin powder and coriander powder, cook over a medium flame till oil starts to separate from the masala.
• Now add the mutton mince, mix well, sprinkle in the salt, continue to cook over a low flame for 20 odd minutes till the mince is almost cooked.
• Adjust seasonings.
• Finish with the chopped coriander leaves, a squeeze of lemon and a generous sprinkle of garam masala powder.
• Allow to cool to room temperature. Keep aside.

For the crepes

• Take the plain flour in a bowl.
• Add the milk, whipped egg , salt, black pepper powder and ½ cup of water, whisk to make a smooth batter. The batter needs to be a medium-thick one with pouring consistency. If the batter is too thick, feel free to add a little water. Keep aside, 15 minutes or so. (Care should be taken that there are no lumps in the batter.)
• Heat a frying pan over medium heat, brush with very little oil. Give the batter a hearty stir.
• Pour 2 small ladle full of batter onto the middle of the pan, spread it evenly around the pan by rotating it. (This needs to be done real quick before the batter begins to set.) Cook till the batter just begins to set.
• Place 2 tbsp of the cooked mutton mince in the middle of the crepe. Flatten the keema with a spoon, gently fold the crepe from all four sides as shown in the picture.
• Press the crepe gently with a flat spatula to seal it properly. It should look like a sealed envelope. Carefully turn the crepe upside down, cook for another 2-3 minutes.
• Allow to cool to room temperature. Keep aside.

Assembling the Pantheras

• Crack the eggs in a big bowl, add a generous pinch of salt and pepper, whip well. Spread half the breadcrumbs on a flat plate.
• Take a crepe, dip in the egg wash and roll in the breadcrumbs. Press the crumbed crepe gently to ensure it is coated evenly on all sides. Shake off any extra crumbs.
• Repeat for all crepes.
• Heat the oil in a deep frying pan, fry the crepes one by one till golden. Keep aside on a kitchen towel.
• Serve hot with kasundi.

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The Anglo Indian Mutton Dakbungalow Fish Fry, Bengali style Fish Croquettes (Maacher Chop, Bengali Style) The Anglo Indian Railway Mutton Curry