Generations of erudite scholars have researched the Tagores of Jorasanko, undeniably the Renaissance family of Bengal, a family whose role in ushering in the modern era in Bengal cannot be challenged by even the most diehard of critics.
I am no historian.
Hence it’s with nervous trepidation that I write this post. If there are errors in facts or hypotheses I am more than happy to stand corrected.
The Tagores can proudly claim to have been the harbingers of modern Bengali cuisine, be it in allowing European cooking techniques to be experimented with in their hallowed kitchens or opening their doors for august Awadhi influences to waft in.
And to say they reveled in experimenting with food is an understatement. Especially when it came to classics. Quintessentially Bengali classics, centuries old, held in deferential reverence. The Tagores took these venerable classics and tweaked them unabashedly, in most instances, simply dethroning the primary ingredient, hitherto the undisputed hero of the delicacy, and promoting a new protagonist instead.
Consider this. Shorshe Maach.
Synonymous with Bengali cuisine.
Rohu or Katla slathered generously in mustard paste spiked with mean chillies. Drizzled with mustard oil for that extra zing.
The Tagores unhesitatingly replaced the fish with mutton.
And was conceptualized Shorshe Mangsho.
Another example. Chingri Maacher Malaikari.
Prawns stewed in coconut milk. Perfumed with whole spices.
Sacrosanct.
The Tagores were intrepid, prawns gave way to the humble bottlegourd in their kitchen.
And thus was born Lau er Malaikari.
Yet another. The humble doibora or dahivada.
Urad dal fritters in sweet-sour yoghurt perfumed with a motley of spices.
In the kitchen of the Tagores, lamb mince ousted the lentils.
And came into being the Keemar Doibora.
And a final one before I wind up and head back to my kitchen.
Take Dhokar Dalna.
Fried lentil dumplings in a fragrant curry.
The Tagores manoeuvre for the lentils to get superceded by green peas.
And Koraishutir Dhokar Dalna is conceived.
And that’s I cook this listless morning.
Koraishutir Dhokar Dalna. Green peas and chana dal dumplings. In a delicately flavored curry, perfumed with whole spices and spiked with ginger. A hint of cumin. A subtlety of ground coriander.
Divine !!!!
Koraishutir Dhokar Dalna (Green Pea Dumplings in Fragrant Curry)
Ingredients
For Koraishutir Dhoka
- 1 cup koraishuti
- 1/2 cup cholar dal or bengal gram
- 2-3 green chilies chopped
- 1/2 tsp ginger grated
- 1 tsp cumin seeds
- 1 tsp cumin powder roasted
- 1 tbsp oil for dhoka
- oil for frying
- salt to taste
For the Dalna
- 1 potato cut into medium cubes
- 1 tsp ginger paste
- 1-2 bay leaves
- 1-2 green cardamom
- 1 inch cinnamon
- 1-2 cloves
- 1 tsp turmeric powder
- 1 tsp coriander powder
- 1.5 tsp cumin powder
- 1 tsp sugar
- 1 tbsp oil
- 2 tsp ghee
- salt to taste
Instructions
For Koraishutir Dhoka
- Soak chana dal overnight. Wash and grind to a coarse paste with a couple of green chilies.
- Grind the green peas to a coarse paste.
- Heat 3-4 tsp oil in pan, throw in the cumin seeds, allow them to splutter.
- Add the green peas paste, chana dal paste, grated ginger, roasted cumin powder and a sprinkle of salt. Cook over a low flame with continuous stirring till the green peas-dal mixture is cooked and comes off the pan easily. Allow the mixture to cool just sufficiently enough to handle.
- Grease a dish with a little oil. Spread the green peas-dal mixture on the dish, about 6-7mm of thickness. Cut into squares as shown in the picture. Allow to cool to room temperature.
- Heat oil in a pan, fry the dhokas till light brown. Keep aside on a kitchen absorbent towel.
For the Dalna
- To the same oil, add the potato cubes, fry over a medium flame till golden. Keep aside on a kitchen absorbent towel.
- Dissolve ginger paste, turmeric powder, coriander powder, cumin powder in little water to make a smooth paste.
- Add 1 tbsp oil in a pan. When smoking hot, throw in the bay leaves, cumin seeds, crushed cardamom, cinnamon and cloves, allow to splutter.
- When the spices start to release their aroma, stir in the above paste and cook till oil is released.
- Add 1 cups of warm water, sprinkle in the sugar, add the fried potatoes, give it a hearty stir and cook for a further 5 minutes till the potatoes are just tender.
- Adjust seasonings, gently add the fried green peas dhokas, cook for a minute or two.
- Finish with a generous dollop of ghee and a sprinkle of garam masala powder. Switch off the flame and allow to stand for a further 5-7 minutes.
- Serve hot with rice.
…..like to about reciepes of thakur barir ranna.
…like to know every twist of thakurbarir ranna…..
Thank you Shilpi