Mawa Cake

The turn of the last century witnessed an overwhelming Zoroastrian population from Iran migrating to Bombay, fast developing into a bustling commercial hub. The Iranians were industrious and aided by fellow Iranian Parsis and propelled by their love for tea, went on to set up a string of humble cafes. Cafes that served, needless to mention, tea.

Before long, the cafes had become synonymous with the city of Bombay, the menus had expanded, the bakery had been introduced and the cafes had emerged as the de facto haunts for Bombayites – those time-stops-still places you went to to chat with friends or read a newspaper or listen to cricket commentary on the radio or just watch the city go by. Over endless cups of Irani Chai.

Times moved on.

The fortunes of the cafes dwindled. The younger generations were not too keen to run cafes. Competition became fierce. As flamboyant cafes and delis took the food scene of the city by storm.

But despite the adversities, to this day, Bombayites do love their Irani cafes.

That hypnotic aroma of baking that lingered out from the kitchens.

Their quirky lists of dos and don’ts (enough to inspire Nissim Ezekiel to pen Irani Restaurant Instructions –

GOD IS GREAT).

The sinful Bun Maska (fresh buns with loads of butter) accompanied with the addictive Irani Chai.

The smorgasbord of biscuits, sweet and savory, baked lovingly in the cafes bakery, stored in trademark glass jars displayed in a disciplined row on the counter, that they still love to pack for home.

The delectable Berry Pulao, or if they fancy, a delicious Dhansaak.

And their to-die-for mawa cake.

Mawa cake, the melt-in-your-mouth khoya cake perfumed with cardamom powder, guaranteed to transport you to food utopia.
So not surprisingly, when B Merwan and Co, a century-old Iranian cafe, downed it’s shutters, the city mourned.
And lo behold, they did rejoice when the  cafe reopened in a couple of months.

Here’s my version of the mawa cake.

Inspired by the iconic mawa cake from B Merwan and Co, the Iranian cafe that has earned a legendary status in the crowded culinary landscape of the city.